The Origins of Gesha
Gesha (sometimes spelled Geisha) traces its roots to the forests of southwestern Ethiopia, near the town of Gesha in the Gori Gesha forest. Unlike most coffee varietals that were developed through selective breeding, Gesha is a wild varietal that evolved naturally in the Ethiopian highlands over centuries.
The varietal remained relatively unknown until the 1930s, when British colonial researchers collected samples from Ethiopia and distributed them to research stations across East Africa. From there, Gesha made its way to Central America in the 1950s, eventually landing at Hacienda La Esmeralda in Panama—where it would later make coffee history.
The Hacienda La Esmeralda Revolution
In 2004, Hacienda La Esmeralda entered their Gesha lot in the Best of Panama competition and changed the specialty coffee world forever. The coffee's extraordinary flavor profile—with its distinctive jasmine, bergamot, and tropical fruit notes—stunned judges and commanded prices never before seen for green coffee.
That single competition launched Gesha into legendary status. Today, exceptional Gesha lots regularly sell for hundreds of dollars per pound at auction, making it the most expensive coffee varietal in the world.
What Makes Gesha Taste Different?
Gesha's flavor profile is unmistakable. Where most coffees offer variations on chocolate, nuts, and stone fruits, Gesha delivers an entirely different experience:
The hallmark of great Gesha is its intense floral character—jasmine, honeysuckle, and rose are commonly noted. Citrus notes lean toward bergamot and orange blossom rather than typical lemon or grapefruit. Many Geshas present tea-like qualities, with a delicate body and refined sweetness that reminds tasters of Earl Grey or fine oolong.
This unique profile comes from Gesha's genetic makeup. The varietal produces lower yields than most coffee plants, concentrating flavors in fewer cherries. Its elongated bean shape and lower density also contribute to its distinctive cup character.
Growing Gesha
Gesha is notoriously difficult to cultivate. The plants are tall and spindly, with long internodes that make them susceptible to wind damage. They produce significantly fewer cherries than commercial varietals, and those cherries mature slowly and unevenly.
The varietal thrives at high altitudes—typically above 1,600 meters—where cooler temperatures slow cherry development and allow complex flavors to form. This altitude requirement, combined with low yields and demanding cultivation, explains Gesha's premium pricing.
Is Gesha Worth the Price?
For coffee enthusiasts seeking transcendent experiences, absolutely. Drinking exceptional Gesha is like hearing a piece of music that expands your understanding of what's possible. The florals, the clarity, the tea-like elegance—it's coffee at its most refined.
That said, Gesha isn't necessarily "better" than other varietals—it's different. A perfectly processed Ethiopian heirloom or a stellar Bourbon can be equally compelling in their own way. Gesha represents one peak of coffee's flavor possibilities, not the only one worth climbing.
The first time I cupped a great Gesha, I understood why people dedicate their lives to coffee. It was like tasting color.
