Why Processing Matters
When you taste notes of blueberry in one Ethiopian coffee and jasmine in another, genetics aren't the only factor at play. Processing—how the coffee cherry is transformed into an exportable green bean—shapes flavor as much as origin or varietal.
Every coffee cherry has the same basic structure: an outer skin, sweet mucilage (fruit flesh), parchment layer, silverskin, and the seed we call a bean. How producers remove these layers, and how long the bean ferments during that removal, creates the foundation of a coffee's character.
Washed (Wet) Processing
Washed processing prioritizes clarity. The cherry's fruit is removed almost immediately after harvest, and the beans ferment briefly in water tanks before being washed clean and dried.
The result: washed coffees tend to taste "cleaner" with higher acidity and more defined flavor notes. You taste the bean itself—its terroir, its varietal character—without the influence of extended fruit contact. Washed Ethiopian coffees often showcase floral and citrus notes with tea-like bodies. Washed Central Americans lean toward bright acidity with chocolate and nut undertones.
The Washed Process Step by Step
Cherries are pulped (skin removed) within 24 hours of harvest. The mucilage-covered beans ferment in water tanks for 12-72 hours, depending on climate and desired profile. After fermentation breaks down the mucilage, beans are washed in channels and spread on raised beds or patios to dry for 10-15 days.
Natural (Dry) Processing
Natural processing is coffee's oldest method. Whole cherries dry in the sun for weeks, with the fruit intact around the bean. This extended contact infuses the bean with sugars and compounds from the fruit.
Natural coffees tend toward heavier body, lower acidity, and fruit-forward flavors. Think blueberry, strawberry, tropical fruit, and wine-like fermentation notes. A great natural Ethiopian can taste like blueberry jam; a natural Brazilian might recall chocolate-covered cherries.
The Natural Process Step by Step
Whole cherries spread on raised beds or patios immediately after harvest. Workers turn them regularly for even drying over 3-6 weeks. Once the cherries reach proper moisture content, they're hulled to remove the dried fruit and parchment.
The challenge: inconsistency. Without careful attention, naturals can develop off-flavors from uneven fermentation or mold. But when executed well, natural processing creates some of coffee's most vibrant and memorable cups.
Honey Processing
Honey processing splits the difference between washed and natural. The skin is removed, but some or all of the mucilage (the "honey") remains on the bean during drying.
The amount of mucilage left creates sub-categories: white honey (minimal mucilage, closer to washed), yellow honey, red honey, and black honey (maximum mucilage, closer to natural). More mucilage means more body, sweetness, and fruit influence.
Honey processed coffees often showcase stone fruit, brown sugar, and gentle acidity. They're particularly popular in Costa Rica and El Salvador, where producers have refined the technique into an art form.
Which Process is Best?
There's no universal answer. Processing should match the coffee's inherent character and the producer's goals.
High-altitude, high-acidity coffees often shine with washed processing that lets their brightness and clarity speak. Lower-altitude coffees or those with naturally heavy bodies might benefit from natural processing that emphasizes their inherent sweetness. Honey processing offers a canvas for experimentation.
The best roasters select processing methods that complement each coffee's strengths. At Waymark, we taste through dozens of lots to find processing that enhances rather than masks what makes each origin special.